*****We have covered why having Multi Spectrum Color, when hair color contains lighter and darker tones combined with both warmer and cooler tones we have Multi Spectrum Color. These elements are a critical component to beautiful hair. This article will make much more sense if you are familiar with the Muti Spectrum concepts. https://www.davidgroshen.com/multi-color-spectrum

Addition By Subtraction, the combination of light with dark levels and warm and cool tones through out your hair, this concept can be easily be achieved by adding darker and lighter strands with warmer and cooler strand’s throughout ones hair color, creating beautiful Multi Spectrum Color! We can achieve this in multiple ways. My favorite way is using a balayage technique (details to follow) to add different levels and tone of color from roots to ends during your single process color application which will create beautiful Multi Spectrum Colored hair. Not all hair is created equal so depending on your existing hair color you might need to use foils to keep the tones and levels more separate, the results remain the same, however the time and cost can dramatically vary. 

Why is this concept of variance of tone and level so important? In order to maintain your best hair color and hair tones that best compliment your individual skin tone we have to plan for the tonal and level variation that happen during the 4 to 6 weeks between touchups, in addition you will have .5 inch to 1 inch of regrowth at an average of about 3/8 to 3/4 inch per month. When your color your hair, the hair color you have applied shifts and changes over the 4 to 6 week span, dyed hair color will usually lighten and get warmer especially when exposed to the sun, ordinarily this change would have to be corrected, however we can use this this change one of level and tone to our advantage!!! 

A deeper dive reveals that the darker cooler tones leave the cortex and cuticle layers first . (Refer to the multi spectrum article… https://www.davidgroshen.com/multi-color-spectrum )… when the darker tones usually blue tones leave it leaves a proportionally higher amount of red and yellow or warmer tones remain. For a lot of my clients who hate red tones in their hair this is a disaster ! Fear not , while reapplying the base color we can adjust and enhance the hair color by creating highlights. We achieve this hair miracle of making the hair both darker and cooler by bringing strands of the base color thru to the end. This technique will create consistency of both level and tone. Now we can weave thru strands of darker cooler tones from root to ends, leaving multiple levels and multiple tones creating Multi Spectrum Hair Color and using the untouched light hair as our new highlights! 

ADDITION BY SUBTRACTION! If you have read the Multi Spectrum article you will know that for Winters and Summers (those whose skin looks best in cool tones) the redder warm tones aren’t so good. Conversely for Autumn’s and most Springs (those who look best in warm tones) love this ! We can use this change of both level and tonal quality to our advantage, Initially I advised my clients I would simply touch up the roots and pull small strands of the base color thru in of hair color by weaving alternating half inch strands thru to the ends . 

Over time this has idea evolved, now I have added a conditioning treatment that I apply immediately after I apply the base color to the regrowth so while the color is processing I give my client s a very deep conditioning treatment . With this new technique I have insured keeping their its healthiest and protect the end when i bring color through them again. 

I spray Olaplex 0 thru the entire uncolored hair focusing on the areas showing the most wear, using a wide tooth comb, I comb it through, then I apply my special blend of ***Olaplex (not the only structure stabilizing product) I will list many and discuss how they work) of Olaplex 2 with the amazing Olaplex 4 in 1 and Milbon hydrating with B18 ,using my hands to apply my secret mixture I comb thru my combination Olaplex treatment until I feel the ends of the hair become completely smooth. As i comb the hair becomes smoother and visibly more shiny. We can all agree that smooth shiny hair is the most beautiful hair! Now after immediately after the hair is protected (in most cases) I can start at create highlights by adding lowlights using a balayage board. First I weave in strands of the base color root to ends to create consistency meaning the same color level and the same tone roots to ends. Then the fun begins ! Depending on the level and tonal change of the hair between touch ups and your using your Season (add color chart link here to help you identify yours) we can add a darker level and different tones to insure the resulting color enhances your skin. 

REMEMBER HAIR IS THE ACCESSORY YOU WEAR EVERYDAY! Again I use the balayage board technique. For Winters and Summers always will need a cool and darker tone, leaving the slightly lighter warmer tones as highlights. The darker level lowlights will also add to the durability of the color. In some cases we will want to add a toning gloss to remove even more of the warmth and also add more shine! For the warmer seasons Spring and Autumn we again pre treat the ends with the secret treatment! Depending on how much variation has occurred between colorings, we choose how much depth and cool tones are needed to create beautiful variances. 

I will use the same balayage board technique to first bring the base color thru in stands to create consistency of level and tone throughout then I will add the darker cooler tones Then Using these steps will leave the hair in amazing condition and will add highlights by subtraction! The change doesn’t need to be TRAUMATIC TO BE DRAMATIC! By not depending on bleach, which can be very damaging to hair, I get amazing hair color with 2 to three levels of variation. 

Additional benefits include the time and money saved ! In most cases the lowlights are done during the processing time and applied immediately after and stay on during the remaining 30 minutes. Each salon appointment will be different as the changes will always be different, this is the fun and creative part of great hair color! On occasions I might need to add a gloss to insure the best tonality. If the hair appears too dark I might not need low lights. I find that using the nature like the weather is not always predictable, on the other hand it is always solvable! Knowing why things work help us make the best choices to look our best!